Introduction

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In order to safely participate in Multi-Pitch climbing at any UQ Mountain Club (UQMC) climbing event, you must obtain your Orange Tape.

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First and foremost, UQMC promotes a safety first culture that guides all our activities. That means that whatever you are doing, you must make sure that your and others safety is the number one priority at any given time. 

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This document will guide you towards a successful completion of the assessment of your Green Tape. In order to get your Orange Tape  approved, there are three main steps:

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1. Read and remember the knowledge displayed in this document;

2. Put all this knowledge in a correct manner into practise;

3. Get yourself assessed by a member of the executive or Trip Leader team who will ask you theoretical questions and will assess your practical skills.

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Please read the following instructions carefully. 

 

NOTE: We do not endorse all the information by the content creators given below. However, we have checked the specific links and believe that they are great learning resources. These links do not replace learning practically from club members, but will be helpful to aid your learning.

 

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Description

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Orange Tape indicates that a member possesses the minimum skill set required to safely participate in multi-pitch activities with the Club under normal conditions. For all Club multi-pitch activities, one or more qualified Black Tape trip leaders will be present to manage unusual or emergency situations. When a member has achieved their Orange Tape, they are allowed to Multi-Pitch under the supervision of members with Black Tape. 

 

Orange Tape includes testable material for a basic self-rescue scenario via ascending a rope with prusiks (as might be required after falling into free-hanging space on a multi-pitch). The procedure for rappelling past a knot using a Munter–Mariner hitch is also included in testable material. In the event of a real knot-bypass scenario, the trip leader will provide appropriate preparation and guidance as required. Orange Tape aims to prepare members for these basic self-rescue eventualities, which have technical and procedural requirements, but no safety-critical time constraints.

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Prerequisites

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You must be a member of UQMC and possess the Yellow Tape and Green Tape competencies to be tested for the Orange Tape competency. Blue Tape is strongly recommended prior to Orange Tape, as it covers essential anchor theory.

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Testable Material

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Practical

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The member being tested must be able to physically demonstrate the following skills:

• Knot tying: Alpine Butterfly knot, Clove Hitch, Munter Hitch, Munter-Mariner Hitch 

• Ascend a rope using Prusiks

• Tying off a belay device

• Build a top belay anchor (using 1 of 3 methods: rope, sling or quad anchor)

• Setup a top belay using an ATC in ‘guide mode’;

• Safely lead-belay from a multi-pitch anchor;

• Demonstrate adequate rope management

• Rappel with knot bypass; correct use of Munter Mariner Hitch

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Theoretical

 

The member being tested must have a comprehensive understanding so as to explain the theory behind:

• The SERENE acronym

• What is a Jesus Draw

• Process of multi-pitching​

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Reading Materials

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Rappelling Past a Knot

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If your rope is damaged but you still need to rappel, you can bypass the knot using a prusik and a Munter mariner hitch. You'll need a long prusik, two locking carabiners, a short prusik, and a sling.

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Start by tying an Alpine Butterfly knot around any rope damage for safety. Before rappelling, tie a Munter mariner hitch using a prusik and place it on a locking carabiner attached to your harness. Ensure the loose part is opposite the gate and wrap the prusik tightly with at least six wraps.

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Set up the rappel as usual: find the rope's middle, pass it through the rappel rings, and tie stopper knots. Rappel down until you're about one meter from the Alpine Butterfly knot.

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Then:

1. Tie a calamity knot two meters below the knot to be bypassed, and attach it to your belay loop.

2. Tie a Munter mariner hitch above your belay device, then slide it up and weight it.

3. Undo and redo your third hand below the Alpine Butterfly knot.

4. Unweight your belay device, and if needed, use a foot wrap to help slide the Munter mariner higher.

5. Detach your belay device and reattach it below the Alpine Butterfly knot

6. Undo the Munter mariner slowly and lower until your belay device is once again fully weighted.

7. Untie the Munter mariner and calamity knot, holding the brake rope, then continue rappelling.

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Alternatively, if you're aware of the knot to be bypassed, you can begin your rappel with the Munter mariner tied above your belay device instead of a third hand prusik tied below, although this can be trickier.

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Ascending a rope using Prusiks:

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1. Set up by tying 2 Prusiks to the rope, the top Prusik (waist Prusik) is attached to the belay loop and a longer Prusik is used as a foot loop to step on. 

2. Maintain 2 points of safety by tying a calamity knot, and connecting it to the belay loop. A new calamity knot should be tied every 2 meters ascended before removing the previous one.

3. If the rope is taut, use an additional waist Prusik instead of the calamity knot as the 2nd point of safety.

4. To ascend, step into the foot Prusik and slide the waist Prusik up as far as possible.

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Tying off the Belay:

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1. While keeping the break angle on the belay device, pass a bight of rope through the belay carabiner. 

2. Half hitch the bolt to the spine of the carabiner twice.

3. If there is not enough space, instead half hitch to the climber side of the rope as close to the belay device as possible. 

4. Secure the remaining bight to the climber strand with a carabiner, creating a closed system.

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Clove Hitch

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The clove hitch is a versatile knot often used to secure a rope to a carabiner.

Steps:

1. Hold the rope in both hands and create a loop by crossing the rope over itself.

2. Create a second loop in the same way, ensuring it matches the first (both loops should have the same orientation).

3. Stack the second loop behind the first one.

4. Clip both loops into a carabiner and tighten by pulling on the rope.

Uses:

• Anchoring to a carabiner or a belay station.

• Easily adjustable for positioning.

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Munter Hitch

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The Munter hitch is used for belaying or rappelling when a belay device isn’t available.

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Steps:

1. Hold the rope and form a loop by twisting the rope 180°.

2. Form a second loop by twisting another 180° in the opposite direction.

3. Clip the carabiner through both loops so the rope can slide freely through.

4. The Munter hitch should create a friction point when tension is applied to one side of the rope.

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Uses:

• Emergency belaying or rappelling.

• Provides a controlled amount of friction.

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Alpine Butterfly Knot

 

The Alpine Butterfly Knot is a versatile mid-line knot used to create a loop that can handle loads in multiple directions. 

Steps:

1. Create Three Loops:

   • Hold the rope in your hands and wrap it around your palm three times, creating three parallel loops.

2. Stack the Loops:

   • Arrange the loops so they are stacked neatly, one on top of the other.

3. Pull the Middle Loop:

   • Take the middle loop (the second loop) and pull it out from under the top loop and over the bottom loop.

4. Tuck the Loop:

   • Thread the middle loop under the remaining two loops, pulling it out through the center.

5. Tighten the Knot:

   • Hold the loop you created and pull on the main rope ends to tighten the knot evenly.

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Uses:

• Creates a fixed loop for clipping into anchors or gear.

• Allows multi-directional loading without compromising strength.

• Useful for isolating a damaged section of rope.

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Additional reading

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Multi-Pitch climbing

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Multi-pitch climbing involves ascending a route with multiple anchors, climbing from the ground to the first anchor (first pitch), then to the second anchor (second pitch), and so on until reaching the top. It’s enjoyable if you’re comfortable at the hardest grade and have essential skills, such as self-rescue, anchor building, and rope management. These skills are crucial since you can’t simply be lowered from the cliff, and some multi-pitches can exceed 100 meters. For visual aid in understanding the process of multi-pitching, you can check out this video of a relatively normal (not elite) climb in the Blue Mountains (13 min). 

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SERENE Anchors

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S - Solid: The anchor, which you are using (bolts, bollards, trees), is solid and you have inspected it.

E -  Equalisation: The tension on both stands is equal, meaning they are both taking the equal load.

R -  Redundant: there are no single points of failure.

E - Efficient: The anchor should be simple, so you can easily inspect it.

NE - No Extension: If a piece fails, the remaining anchor will not shock load. 

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Climbing a Multi-Pitch

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A multi-pitch is usually done by two people, where the climber-belayer pairs swap roles. UQMC recommends multi-pitching with a group of 4, as you always have two ropes, double the gear and more hands and brains to help if something goes wrong.

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To make things more clear for the following explanation, we will call the fictive people Climber A and Climber B. Consequently, Climber A is also Belayer A and Climber B is Belayer B.

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The steps are as follows:

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1. Start:

You start at the base of the cliff. You and your climbing partner both tie in at each end of the rope with a rethreaded Figure-8 knot. Climber A will be climbing first, and carries all the quickdraws and other gear. Perform the buddy checks:

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• The rope is appropriately flaked such that it smoothly feeds slack as Climber A ascends;

• Both climbers have correctly tied into the ends of the rope;

• Both climbers’ harnesses are in good condition and are correctly fitted;

• Both climbers are wearing helmets;

• Climber B has correctly set up the belay device and is ready to belay;

• Climber A has sufficient gear to complete the climb (enough quickdraws, 2 PAS, 6 locking carabiners, guide mode ATC (and an optional assisted braking belay device), prusiks and slings;

• Both climbers are aware of the communication commands.

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Climber A will then lead climb as normal up to the first double-bolt-belay (DBB). At the first anchor, Climber A will put in their two safeties and set up their own anchor (rope, sling or quad), creating a redundant master point from which to top belay. 

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Climber/Belayer A will then pull up the rope until it becomes tight on Belayer/Climber B who will yell out ‘THAT’S ME!’. It is important to remember that Climber B is NOT on belay at this point. Belayer A will load their belay device correctly, connect it to the masterpoint, and conduct all last checks (SERENE and ABCDE) before communicating that Climber B is on belay. 

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2.  The first pitch:

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Once Belayer A has created a top belay anchor, Belayer A will communicate to Climber B that they are ON BELAY. Climber B checks to see if there is any slack in the rope by tugging hard and shouts TAKE if necessaryON BELAY back. Subsequently, Climber B will start climbing and will shout to Belayer A CLIMBING, so Belayer A knows Climber B is starting and starts taking up the slack. Climber B will climb the route and will be removing quickdraws from the wall as they climb. 

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Tip: The easiest way to remove the draws is to find a secure position, unclip the draw from the u-bolt, let the draw fall to the belay loop and then clip the draw to the gear loop. This also prevents dropping your quickdraws into the abyss.  

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3. Transitioning back to lead climbing and lead belaying

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Once Climber B reaches the belay station, Climber B will get onto two points of safety and communicate this to Belayer A. Climber B tells Belayer A to come off belay. Belayer A will let Climber B know when they are off belay. Belayer A will then switch to lead belaying with either an ATC or assisted braking device (Grigri). Climber B will pass the bag to Belayer A.

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Climber B puts a Jesus draw (quickdraw) into the anchor or first bolt (if this is within reach) and clips the rope through that quickdraw. Climber B gets ready to start leading the next pitch. Both perform buddy checks. Belayer A lets Climber B know when Climber B is on belay. Climber B can start climbing after taking the two safeties off. 

 

4. Getting to the anchor of the second pitch

When Climber B gets to the second pitch (anchor), Climber B will go on two points of safety and set up a top belay anchor.

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Step 2, 3 and 4 are repeated for remaining pitches, until they reach the top of the climb. More visual information can be found on this website. 

 

Safely set up a multi-pitch anchor

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Setting up a multi-pitch anchor is identical to setting up a top belay anchor. The types of anchors are discussed in the Red Tape booklet. 

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The only difference is that you are on the wall instead of on top of a cliff or climb. It is therefore important that you first put in two safeties when reaching the double bolt belay or another anchor setup. Depending on your surroundings, you can choose your anchor setup: rope, sling or quad anchor. 

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Belaying from a multi-pitch anchor is identical to belaying from a top belay anchor. Just make sure that you get in a comfortable position in your harness and/or against the wall. 

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Safely lead belay from a multi-pitch anchor

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Again, lead belaying on a multi-pitch anchor is the same as lead belaying on a single pitch, except that you are not standing on the ground, but dangling off a cliff. However, the communication, signals, giving slack, taking up and all other techniques are still the same. 

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Keep in mind that you are sitting (most likely) in your two safeties, carrying a backpack, hugging the wall and managing the rope. You do not want to short rope your climber. 

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Purpose of a Jesus draw

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From the first pitch and up, it is important to put in a Jesus draw. Basically, this is a quickdraw with the rope clipped into it, put on the anchor system or the first bolt, if this is within reach. 

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The reason why this is UQMC protocol is because if a climber falls before the first bolt, the Jesus draw will catch the climber, instead of the belayers’ device which is attached to their harness. This also makes sure that the belayer can step up to give a soft catch as well. 

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If there is no Jesus draw, falling from the first bolt could potentially be dangerous, as all the weight falling down will be caught by the belayers’ harness. And the belayer will be yeeted down, instead of up. The weight is not good for the harness, the anchor system and the backs of both the climber and the belayer. 

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Catching a fall

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Falling on a multi-pitch can be quite scary, as you sometimes are very high. But catching a fall on a multi-pitch can also be equally as scary. In essence, catching a fall of a climber on a multi-pitch is the same as on a single pitch. You still need to give a soft catch if you can by standing up. 

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However, there are more factors to consider when you are multi-pitching. 

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1. You cannot jump, as you are tied to the anchor with your two points of safety.  So just step up - a big step when someone is heavier and a smaller step when someone is lighter. 

2. You have all this rope on you, near you, around you. So when you step up, make sure that you do not send the rope down the wall. It is immensely annoying to retrieve the rope back up. 

3. You might be belaying in an awkward spot and stepping up is going to be difficult.

4. You might not hear the climber as you are higher up. There might be wind noise, and the distance between you and the climber may be larger.

5. You may get pulled up to the extent of your safety in a large fall, this can be uncomfortable and can result in a harder catch, the climber should be aware of this eventuality and climb with this in mind

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So when multi-pitching, as a belayer, be more alert when the climber is falling. 

 

What do I do when I drop quickdraws while seconding?

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The situation where you drop a quickdraw does not necessarily mean you cannot ascend your multi-pitch. It makes it a bit harder, but not impossible. 

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If you have dropped your quickdraw/s, assess first where they have fallen. 

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• Have they fallen on a ledge? Great! Then you can ask your belayer to lower you to the ledge and grab them. Or climb up then rappel down to grab them. 

• Have they fallen all the way to the bottom? Well, that sucks. You can either grab them when you rappel all the way down, or hope that someone has found them and will return them back to you (the climbing community is usually quite honest). You might want to inspect your quickdraws and consider retiring them if they have fallen from a substantial height.

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Assess how many quickdraws you have left, how many pitches you need to complete, how many bolts each pitch has and how long/high each climb of the multi-pitch is. If a route is 40 metres, you need more quickdraws. Shorter routes usually require less. 

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Assess the gear you have left, can you for example ‘make a quickdraw’ with a sling and two carabiners? 

Lastly, assess how safe it is to keep on climbing with one or more missing quickdraws. This is different for every situation, so therefore talk this over with your climbing partner. 

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If the situation is unsafe, rappel down immediately and try to climb the multi-pitch another day. 

 

What do I do if either me or my partner has dropped their belay device? 

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Dropping your belay device is not ideal, but you can complete the multi-pitch without a belay device. 

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The first step is determining who has the least experience, this person should carry the remaining belay device. It can be quite difficult and tedious to belay without a belay device. There are two options to top belay a seconder and one option to lead belay a climber.

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1. Top belay with Garda hitch: You can find a page here on how to tie a garda hitch

How to top belay with a garda hitch:

• Attach 2 carabiners (preferably of the same size) to anchor masterpoint;

• Use Garda hitch to secure rope in guide mode;

• Belay the climber up using the same technique as belaying in guide mode with an ATC

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2. Top belay or lead belay with a Munter hitch: use this to belay a climber, the same way you use a Munter hitch to rappel. It is quite easy to top belay with a munter, however, it is important to remember that a munter is not an assisted brake or auto-locking, so you must keep a firm grip on brake rope at all times. See this video for more information (4 min). It can be a bit harder to lead belay with a munter, but this will get better with time. 

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Communication

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When multi-pitching, communication is very important. If you start climbing, but you're not on belay, this can have deadly consequences. Therefore, you must keep your communication short, clear, loud and simple. The most common commands are:

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• ON BELAY + person’s name

• OFF BELAY + person’s name

• CLIMBING

• THAT’S ME

• ON SAFETY

• CLIMB WHEN READY

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Be aware that you sometimes cannot see or hear your belayer or climber, so you should also have rope signals in case this happens (very likely). Discuss the rope signals before you start climbing the multi-pitch. Bringing up walkie-talkies is also a good idea. 

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Rope management

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When you are multi-pitching, you will keep building anchors higher and higher on the climb. This means that you will take the rope up with you as well. When you are finished setting up the top belay anchor, you will have to take out all the slack in the rope before putting the seconder ‘on belay’. 

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Usually you do not have a ledge or a spot where you can collect your rope when you are taking (the Seconder) up. You are suspended in mid-air or awkwardly hanging on the side of the mountain. Therefore, UQMC recommends good rope management by taking up the rope and placing it over your legs or over one of your safeties. To help the rope feed out you want to make the loops big and have them get smaller so they don’t overlap.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rope management is important when doing a multi-pitch. For example, you do not want your rope to get stuck below you when you are top belaying your seconder - this means you have to rappel down to get it again. Or when switching from top belaying to lead belaying, it is harder to belay a climber if the rope is really tangled.

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Retrievable single strand rappel

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You want to rappel down, but you only have a Grigri. That sometimes happens. There is an easy way to rappel down on a single strand and get your rope back! You will need to set up the rope the same way as you normally would do through the rappel rings and with stopper knots in the ends of the rope, but this time you will add an Alpine Butterfly knot in the middle of the rope. You clip a locking carabiner to the eye of the Alpine Butterfly knot and the other strand of the rope (on the other side of your rappel station). This way the rope does not friction itself when you are pulling it down, but will friction on the carabiner. You rappel down on the strand without the Alpine Butterfly knot, so on the strand with the locking carabiner. When you have reached the ground safely, you will pull the strand down with the Alpine Butterfly knot. Voila, you got your rope back and got down safely. 

 

To be absolutely sure, ask yourself: What would happen if I rappel on the side with the Alpine Butterfly?. Hint: it is NOT good.

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Assessment Process 

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The Orange Tape can be awarded by a Trip Leader with Black Tape.  The member will have to demonstrate the practical competencies and be able to answer questions regarding the theoretical material without error. The Assessor will complete a checklist, stating that they have witnessed the member completing the practical competencies, and that the questions regarding the theoretical material were answered without error.

 

Once the member has demonstrated that they are competent, their skill level will be updated on the Club database and their membership profile will be updated by the assessor to display an Orange Tape badge. If a member with Orange Tape is seen making errors, is unsure of their ability or is displaying an unsafe attitude, an Executive can rescind their tape.

 

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